I find most New York wine lists are pretty cookie-cutter with the same producers paying to push the same bottles. So it’s rare to find a thoughtful list like the one at Clay put together by Gabriela Davogustto, which is full of classic as well as cutting-edge wines.
Davogustto has an indomitable spirit. She immigrated to America from Venezuela before Hugo Chavez came to power, working her way up from hostess to line cook to eventually wine director and now runs a Harlem restaurant.
Over a recent Zoom call, Davogustto and I talked about her career path, her secrets to studying wine, and the grim realities restaurants continue to face during the COVID-19 era.
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